Photocredit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images Europe

“Editor’s note: Ger Duany is a former child soldier and one of the ‘Lost boys of Sudan,’ a name given to the thousands of young boys who were separated from their families during the country’s civil war. He now lives and works in New York City as an actor and model. Duany recently visited South Sudan and writes for CNN about his hopes for the new nation, which turns six months on January 9.

(CNN) — It’s been almost two decades since I was separated from my family, my home and my past as a war child. Last year I was able to travel back to East Africa to find my parents, reconnect with others who survived the war and place my vote in the referendum that would eventually lead to the division of Sudan into two independent states.

On July 9 2011, the Republic of South Sudan was born. It’s hard to describe how I felt that day as I stood among tens of thousands of South Sudanese men, women and children waving our new flag and screaming “South Oye! Separation Oye!”

Through two civil wars that lasted a total of 39 years, this is what we had hoped, prayed and fought for; it was hard to believe it was happening in my lifetime.

Yes, each one of us has fears, hopes and dreams about how we are transforming into a nation. As a citizen, I don’t mind us having to crawl and take small steps in our progress. Development is not a race and for it to be sustainable it should be holistic. We’re starting from scratch and have a lot of ground to cover. . . ” – CNN

Images via Journaux.fr/BeautyisDiverse

Image via – Anne of Caversville/Beauty is Diverse

The Veteran

Name:Oluchi Onweagba
Age:29
From:Nigeria
Why you should know her name:
Oluchi was discovered when she was 16 by Elite, when she won the Face of Africa competition in 1998. She went on to star on covers all over the world -from Vogue Italia and i-D, to Marie Claire and Nylon. Designers love her marketability as well as her edgy editorial look, so not only did she book shows for Chanel and Christian Dior, she featured in campaigns for brands including Gianfranco Ferré, Gap and Banana Republic. Now, Oluchi runs her own modelling agency – OModel Africa – through which she hopes to provide opportunities she had to a new generation of models.

The Obsession

Name: Nyasha Matonhodze
Age: 16
From: Zimbabwe
Why you should know her name:
Legendary stylist Katie Grand has been obsessed with Nyasha since she she won the Elite Model Look competition when she was 14 and signed with the agency. The buzz around the teen model started last spring, when Grand booked her for three of the biggest shows of the season: Louis Vuitton, Emanuel Ungaro and Loewe. All in Nyasha’s debut season. She snagged the autumn/winter 2011-12 Louis Vuitton campaign and appeared in editorials for Harper’s Bazaar, V Magazine and the autumn/winter 2011 cover of LOVE (which is edited by Grand), then, in September, she walked for Versace, Missoni, Temperley, Richard Nicoll and Giles to name but a few. With a must-see spread coming out in November’s issue of Vogue Japan, Nyasha is the name on everyone’s lips.

The Over-Achiever

Name:Kinee Diouf
Age: Age: 25
From: Senegal
Why you should know her name:
If you don’t know Kinee’s name by now, you should at least know her face. This Senagalese beauty has walked for everyone from Zac Posen and Roksanda Illincic, to Louise Gray – and that’s just this year. Loved by magazine editors and designers alike, Kinee has graced the pages of British Vogue, i-D, Wallpaper, the 10th anniversary cover of Tank, and appeared in campaigns for Diesel and Benetton. Within five years in the notoriously fickle fashion industry, the 5’9”model has accomplished more than most models do in their entire career, and she doesn’t look like she’s going to slow down in 2012.

The Power House

Name: Liya Kebede
Age:33
From:Ethiopia
Why you should know her name:
Forbes put Liya in the top 15 highest paid models list for 2007 and 2008, thanks to high-earning campaigns from brands like Estée Lauder, rumoured to be worth $3million alone. She is one of the industry’s most established black models, having appeared three times on the cover of American Vogue, as well as the Italian, Spanish, French and Japanese editions of the fashion tome, and in campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana, Victoria’s Secret and Lacoste (remember the polo shirts and evening dresses?). She has also appeared in three films and is the founder of the Liya Kebede Foundation, which aims to reduce maternal, newborn and child mortality in Ethopia and around the world. This model-turned-entrepreneur has her own clothing line called Lemlem, which is stocked at Barney’s, J.Crew, and Net-a-Porter, and which she hopes will preserve the traditional Ethiopian art of weaving.

The Breakthrough Star

Name:Grace Bol
Age: 21
From: Sudan
Why you should know her name:
This statuesque 5’10” model made her first big splash walking for Givenchy in Paris last season. Now she’s gaining more exposure she often gets confused for that other big name Sudanese model – Alek Wek – and even has people chasing after her to ask Alek’s autograph. Despite the uncanny resemblance, Grace is definitely carving her own path in the fashion world, walking for DVF and Suno last month in New York, and she has aspirations of starting a clothing line in her home country to provide local people jobs and showcase their talent.

The One to Watch

Name:Herieth Paul
Age:16
From:Tanzania
Why you should know her name:
Since Elle Canada put her on its July cover with the headline ‘Naomi, Move Over’, this fresh-faced model has gained a lot of attention. But the comparisons don’t end there, she is often referred to as a ‘black Kate Moss’, or compared to model Grace Jones. At 16, she is already being considered an icon by industry insiders like photographer Steven Meisel, who shot her for the cover of Italian Vogue with Freja Beha Erichsen and Arizona Muse. Having also appeared in an instalment of short fashion films entitled This One for CK One, this self-proclaimed shy girl is getting over her insecurities and plans to make an appearance on the cover of every fashion title in the world within two years.

The Beauty Queen

Name:Flaviana Matata
Age:24
From:Tanzania
Why you should know her name:
This Miss Universe semi-finalist is not your typical beauty queen, she competed in the Miss Tanzania competition in 2007 with a shaved head; the first ever contestant to do so. Her striking look went on to catch the eye of music mogul Russell Simmons, who helped to promote her public profile and propel her to the top of the modelling game. Early last year she signed with Next in New York and, since then, has appeared in the spring/summer 2011 Topshop campaign and on the catwalk for Felder Felder, PPQ and Louise Gray. She was also selected by photographer Nick Knight to feature with nine other black models in his film tribute to Alexander McQueen, To Lee with Love.

The Super Duper Model

Name:Alek Wek
Age:34
From:Sudan
Why you should know her name:
There is no way you can’t know her name. Alek is probably Africa’s most famous fashion export ever. She was scouted in 1995 at a market in London, and the then 18-year-old went on to appear in Tina Turner’s Golden Eye music video that same year. After walking for Chanel, Christian Lacroix and John Galliano, appearing in another music video for Janet Jackson, featuring on numerous magazine covers including Elle, Vogue, i-D, and in campaigns for brands such as Clinique and Victoria’s Secret, she was named MTV’s Model of the Year in 1997. Despite being quite mature in the world of modelling (she’s 34), Alek continues to fascinate the industry, walking for Louis Vuitton last season, and featuring on a recent cover of Stylist.

Visit Beach Tomato for pictures and full Africa Edition story.

“Having scoured the country to select the most promising hopefuls, Mahogany Model Management brought to you exciting, tension filled regional heats in August 2011 in what to date has been a fantastic competition. Out of 80 aspiring and experienced models to choose from, 22 made it through to the grand finale and they are all looking for their big break.

Offering the beautiful and talented participant’s exposure to the amazing world of modelling and an opportunity to forge a career in this highly affluent industry, all the heats took place in August at Tiger Tiger London.

Prizes: Some of the prizes offered include a 1 year modelling contract with Mahogany Model management, numerous magazine shoots and much more… Last year saw Nana Afua Antwi beat off thousands of hopefuls from all over the country, to be named Season 5 Top Model of Colour, winning some fantastic prizes.”

Mahogany Model Management provides models with exposure to the modelling industry as well as gives them the chance to find out from professionals, their true potential to becoming a model.

The Top Model of Colour (TMC) competition is open to female and male models of Asian, African, Caribbean, Hispanic, Oriental, and dual heritage decent aged between 18 – 30 yrs of a minimum height of 5.1”.

Mahogany Model Management aims to promote and manage models of all colour and are passionate about exposing and taking models of colour to the top.

1. Ford Models
2. Marilyn Agency NY
3. Storm Model Management
4. One Management
5. Next Models NYC
6. Models 1
7. Premier
8. Elite Model NY
9. Major Model Management
10. M and P Models

To see who our tall African beauties are signed with, click Africa’s 21 Fresh Model Faces in Fashion.

As the industry went from one fashion cycle to another, saturating homes, malls, shops, televisions runways and all facets of American and European life with its beautiful aesthetics and designs, where was the African model? What was her role and how significant was she back then? Has there been a shift in her role from the past to present?

As long time readers of Ladybrille Magazine know, the catalyst for establishing Ladybrille was precisely because I wanted these questions, among others, answered. This led to an article I authored in 2006 titled “Demystifying the Exoticness of the African Fashion Model,” and ultimately a pioneer publication on contemporary African fashion & Entertainment for the Western masses via its influencers, aka Ladybrille.

I believe since my article of 2006, the African model has indeed come a long way with more achievements and accomplishments to come in future. We are now in an era where Africa boasts diversity of models in the Western fashion industry. From Ajak Deng, Georgie Badiel, Nana Keita to Nyasha Matonhodze, African fashion models are sashaying down catwalks around the world, featuring in major editorials and campaigns and significantly helping to increase the bottom line of Western fashion and corporate brands. For all of their contributions, we pay our respect and tribute to these long legged beauties who continue to raise a positive profile of Africa around the world.

THE PENDING ARRIVAL OF THE AFRICAN MODEL, 1800s-1960s

In the 1800s, fashion models were unheard of. In fact, there were no catwalks, fashion trend forecasts, fashion weeks, no fashion as we know it. There was, however, the first world famous fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth also known as the “Father of Haute Couture.” Worth was an English fashion designer who began his fashion house in 1858. Prior to 1858, in 1852, he introduced the industry to the first known fashion model, Marie Vernet Worth, his wife.

Marie Vernet modeled for Worth as a “House Model.” This meant she modeled exclusively for Worth’s fashion company. Modeling and models from the 1800s well into the 1900s remained a novel and ever evolving concept and industry; until the 1960s when the fashion model was really ready for take-off.

The 1960s was a time of chaos, the world over. Blacks in the USA were fed up with legally sanctioned racial discrimination and by the mid-1950s into the 1960s, they geared up and conducted non-violent protests ranging from sit-ins and marches to boycotts. Across the world from the USA, Africa itself was going through its own uprising as African citizens across the continent rose up against their colonial masters ushering a period of de-colonization in many of its countries. Within the USA, independent of Blacks fighting for their civil rights, there was a fierce anti-establishment movement that had begun brewing in the 1940s, just after World War II. This movement became overheated and birthed a sub-culture, the hippie movement. Everybody and everything was crazy. The 1960s, arguably, might have seemed like the perfect time for the African model to emerge on the Western scene, but all the madness needed to cool off.

THE ARRIVAL OF THE AFRICAN MODEL

I. THE AFRICAN MODEL EXPANDS THE DEFINITION OF BEAUTY 1970s-1990s

By the 1970s, the craziness around the world had sufficiently cooled off. Supermodel Iman, Ladybrille Woman of the Month March 2011, emerged. Iman made her grand entrance through Vogue Magazine, the fashion bible and simultaneously expanded the definition of beauty while opening the doors for more African and Ethnic models to come. Subsequent after Vogue, Iman appeared on the covers of major magazines and was a muse to some of the biggest design houses in the world including Gianni Versace and Yves Saint Laurent.

II. THE AFRICAN MODEL INTRODUCES ETHNIC COSMETICS FOR WOMEN OF COLOR, 1990s-2000s

In the 1990s, two significant occurrences happened in the Western fashion industry. First, Iman launched her cosmetics line IMAN in 1994, creating a makeup line for all women of color. Back then, it used to be extremely difficult for ethnic women to find foundations that matched their skin tones. While Makeup Art Cosmetics aka M.A.C. was launched in 1984 in Canada, it was not until 1991 that M.A.C. launched in the USA. In addition, it took even more years before M.A.C was able to create true diverse offerings, especially in foundations, for women of color, particularly Black women.

The second major event and contribution by the African model was the further expansion of the definition of beauty. Iman opened the door in 1976 but there were still many, especially among Black Americans and Africans,who could not resonate with Iman because of her arguably Anglo features. In 1995, Sudan’s Alek Wek appeared to fill that void. Hear appearance was met with heavy resistance because she was considered to be unattractive and an extreme polarity of Iman by many Blacks, Africans and Whites. Ultimately, the controversy died down and by then, Alek had succeeded in further expanding the definition of beauty to include very dark skinned “non-Anglo looking” women.

III.  THE AFRICAN MODEL BECOMES GLOBAL BEAUTY AMBASSADOR- 2000s to present.

Since Iman and Alek Wek, there have been many dynamic African models ranging from Supermodel Oluchi to Ladybrille’s own Supermodel Nana Keita. Further, within local communities across the USA and Europe, African models have helped thousands of fashion companies push their brands worldwide, directly increasing their bottom line. Career wise, many of these African models have also diversified their portfolios to include that of “Modelpreneurs” with businesses ranging from modeling agencies to design houses, acting to singing careers.

This 2011, highly significant in increasing the bottom line of Western fashion brands has been Liya Kebede, who was recently named the new face of L’Oreal Paris. Kebede’s job as a brand ambassador for L’Oreal  makes her the first African model to ink such major global deal. She also joins South African actress Terry Pheto who was signed as a brand ambassador in 2008. Kebede’s L’Oreal deal also confirms the continued focus and expansion by the African model, since her entrance in the 1970s into the Western fashion industry, to show that beauty is indeed diverse. Young women of color around world, because of the African model, now believe they are beautiful just the way they are.

What next for the African Fashion Model? This article analyzed the contributions of the African model in the West consistent with Ladybrille’s brand mission and slogan (#1 African fashion & entertainment magazine for the West). But, make no mistake about it, the African model has also had a powerful impact across the continent of Africa.

Nevertheless, we still ask what new contributions will the African model make in the future? Time will tell. But, with the current list of Ladybrille Magazine’s Africa’s 21 Fresh Model Faces in Fashion, we can only imagine the best is yet to come!

-Uduak Oduok